Needling is a non-surgical therapy that stimulates the dermis, or rather the regeneration of tissues from the inside, and the production of new collagen and elastin.
This technique is considered a big step forward in the market of aesthetics, as it has come to it after years of studies on new rejuvenation techniques that until a few years ago were entrusted to the chemistry of peeling.
The basic concept is to simulate what happens to the human body when it suffers a wound. After cutting our body puts into operation the processes of natural skin repair that pass in our body. Summing up therefore, many micro lesions of the skin stimulate its natural regeneration, also involving the parts not damaged and producing collagen and elastin, called into question by the body, to give life to wound healing, which is the injury caused by the injection. Therefore, recovery times are lower and fewer adverse reactions compared to what happens with laser or peeling.
The needling is carried out with the use of a device called roller, or a sort of roller at the end of which small needles are positioned. Depending on the length of the needle, the depth in which it penetrates, the purpose and the type of treatment, the roller used to perform the needling differs in: Dermapen, Dermastamp and Dermaroller.
Dermapen, as the word says, is a sort of pen with a round head, with few needles, which have an electronically controlled vertical movement (to be clear they go up and down). Dermastamp always has the shape of a pen, but the head is wider. The depth at which needles can penetrate and the frequency are regulated by the operator who performs the treatment and assesses, at the moment, the type of skin, the area and the blemish to be treated. Dermaroller instead is a kind of wheel that is passed on the skin and, turning, creates these micro-holes. The needles are fixed and not adjustable. Dermaroller is also sold for home use and its needles usually do not exceed 0.5 mm in length. The needles of Dermaroller, Dermapen and Dermastamp can have a variable length from 0.01 mm to 3 mm.
The skin is then “traumatized” by the action of these needles that cause a sensation of pain and discomfort of the skin. The ideal to avoid skin dehydration is the use of a topical anesthetic cream, based on dexpanthenol, such as Anestop, whose best formula is composed of dexpanthenol for 8% and three anesthetics: amethocaine, propitocaine and lignocaine.
Dexpanthenol has a very important function in beauty treatment due to its soothing, softening and vitalizing action. In the capillary level, panthenol penetrates in the skin and improves its properties. The topical use of dexpanthenol, the stable alcoholic analog of pantothenic acid, is based on good skin penetration and high local concentrations of dexpanthenol when administered in an adequate vehicle, such as water-in-oil emulsions. Topical dexpanthenol reducing transepidermal water loss acts like a moisturizer, improving stratum corneum hydration, and maintaining skin softness and elasticity.
Indirect activation of fibroblast proliferation, which is of relevance in wound healing, has been observed e experimented both in vitro and in vivo with dexpanthenol.
In various studies it has been shown that topical application of dexpanthenol to skin lesions and wounds markedly shortens the time required to indirectly regenerate the epithelium. This indicates that dexpanthenol accelerates cell formation in the deeper lying epidermal layers. The newly formed cells rebuild the natural protective barrier.
The use of Anestop is therefore very important, as well as hygiene during treatment: the needles must be sterilized and the patient’s skin well cleaned and disinfected. The dermapen and dermastamp have disposable heads. The Dermaroller, based on the material of which the needles are made, can be sterilized with disinfectants specific for surgical instruments.